Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia & Zimbabwe Pics

Hey everyone - rest assured I am still here, i'm just unable to post my backlog of blog entries. I write it every few days on my iphone and then post it when I find wireless internet - which is proving difficult. I'm currently in Nambia and have soooooooooooooo much to update you on so please keep checking in. I'm hoping it will be soon. Thanks for all your messages of encouragement to keep the blog coming!

In the meantime here are the pics from Zambia and Zimbabwe:

ZAMBIA & ZIMBABWE PICS

and Malawi and Tanzania:

MALAWI & TANZANIA PICS

Botswana and Namibia are a lot more culture and landscapes!

Miss you all (one little furry baby in particular)

xxx

Zulu Dolls

Ok, so when I was little my dad gave me a gorgeous beaded African doll. It was conical in shape, had beads all over it, and gold rings around it's neck, and it's woollen hair was also threaded with beads. I loved that doll, but somewhere along the way it got lost or broken and now i no longer have it.

So, I'd made it my mission to find one of these dolls in Africa. I have searched everywhere, in each country i've been to, to no avail. I've told all the people I'm with to look for them too and there have been many false alarms but still nothing.

So, as we were finishing up in Vic Falls one of the girls on my group came running up saying she'd found the dolls. I was skeptical as i hadn't seen them in the same curio market she directed me to and i grilled her on exactly what they looked like. I couldn't believe they sounded like the ones.

Despite being right at the border, and the exorbitant cost of cabs in such places, I commandeered a taxi to take me back in to town and went looking. And I found the dolls!!

9 countries in and I finally found them in Zimbabwe - next to my dads roots. How poetic! Of course I couldn't stop at one and now have a Russian doll collection if beaded Zulu girls. I love a happy ending.

Love to my bear
Xxx

Victoria Falls

Of course the main reason we were in Zimbabwe was to see one of the seven natural wonders of the world. - Victoria Falls. I'd been a bit disappionted when I heard that we were here in the dry season and the falls were very low this time of year. I had no idea there were better seasons to come see them.

So, when we paid our park fee and rounded the corner to see them i was half expecting something like fitzroy falls back home. Instead I came face to face with an enormous, glorious wall of water. They are HUGE!

A fine mist filled the air, rainbows decorated every direction you turned and the sheer volume of water was mind blowing. This gentle river on top if the gorge was spilling over into a thunderous chasm and the roar was deafening.

As we trekked further in to the park the vegetation changed completely. Because of the constant mist - more like rain when you're right un front - the whole area is a rainforest. In the middle of Africa! Damp and lush and green, with the smell of soggy wood and the vibrancy of colour and life only a wet habitat has.

Victoria Falls is spectacular and deserves wholly it's standing in the seven wonders (I've seen two now - Great Barrier Reef also ticked). Wet season, dry season, doesn't matter when you go, they are absolutely enormous. And must be seen from the Zimbabwe side, or the air to be truly appreciated.

Tell my Harvey that I'll take him in a big walk to Fitzroy Falls when u get back.

Xxx

Zipping over to Zimbabwe

On my third day in Livingston I took myself down to the border bridge in the hope I might conquer my nerves regarding the bungee. In fact I was more scared looking over the railing than I was even thinking about it. Add to that that they tie your feet with a towel and a piece of rope, and that my body isn't exactly ergonomically built for bouncing, and I backed away easily with no regrets. I decided to instead head across the bridge to Zimbabwe for the day.

Aside from being the front-on view of Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe is also the birthplace and childhood playground of my dad. I just couldn't come this far and not cross the border.

So, from the bridge we decided to travel by rickshaw to the border. I knew it was going to be a great day when I received a warthog welcome just inside the gate. As you know these cheeky creatures are my favourite and this time it was a mother and baby that gatekept the entrance.

As it was midday we headed straight for lunch at the spectacular Victoria Falls hotel and sat on the terrace overlooking the Zambezi gorge (and the bridge I couldn't fling myself off). I ordered a delicious crispy salmon fillet salad but had to try my dining companion's ostrich salad too. Turns out ostriche is delicious!

After lunch we headed to the curio market as Zimbabwe has the most incredible carvings I've seen in Africa. Many are life size and carved of Zambezi stone and range from the big 5 animals, to abstracts fluid pieces. there are huge yards filled with these stunning carvings. I would have loved to buy up big but unfortunately postage and luggage weight restrictions to come said otherwise. But I did buy a stone necklace of the Zimbabwe bird to remind me of dad.

I'll refrain from oversharing but readers should know my stomach of steel finally gave up halfway through perusing the markets. It was a very tense, unexpected, and urgent moment. There was a whisper to my shopping buddy, a handing back to a seller the things I'd been looking at, and a mad dash into a nearby shop with a desperate cry that I'd pay to use their bathroom. Cue a pitch black room and some awkward fumblings, only to realise this was the fanciest bathroom I'd "seen" in Africa yet. Relief.

The best of My fly by visit to "Zim" was yet to come... The majestic falls.

Kisses to the bear xxx

Living it up in Livingston

The next morning we were up early to make our way to the adventure capital of southern Africa - Livingston, Zambia. Our campsite at the Waterfront was a hub of activity with cruises coming and going from the port, white water rafters heading out, and everyone squeezing as much into the 3 full days we had there as we possibly could.

I was toying with the idea of bungee jumping but my mind was set on white water rafting the Zambezi. After a presentation outlining all the available activities in Livingston from lion walking to helicopter flights, gorge swinging to building homes for the locals, I was still set on rafting and booked for the next morning.

I promised myself an early night but of course the sunset cruise (that's affectionately known as the "booze cruise") had other ideas. It was a stunning boat ride down the zambezi where we saw hippos, crocodiles and a huge group of elephants frolicicking in the water and on shore. All tinted orange by yet another spectacular African sunset.

But when the sun went down and the boat docked at The Waterfront we were all ready to dance. And even when the rains came we still danced, drenched and deliriously happy. It was a superfun night with the superfun people on my tour, but we were all responsibly in bed by 10.

Heads still hurt in the morning though, despite the early night. But, let me tell you, if they could bottle whitewater rafting as a hangover cure Zambia would be the wealthiest country in Africa. It us the single most exhilarating thing I have ever done!

From the briefing breakfast in the morning they'd decided to call me Esther Crazy and I did my best to not disappoint. I was put on Boyd's boat - an injured kayaking champion who's getting through a set of broken ribs by captaining rafts full of unsuspecting tourists. He's an adrenalin junkie and being in his boat meant taking the hardest route through each of the grade 5 rapids (the hardest in the world you can do). Needless to say we were the only boat that flipped... and it was worth every nail biting moment!

My tenty Katy and I were the only girls on a raft with 6 other men. What a relief we thought. Turns out we were possibly the toughest of the lot of them - although one Irish guy couldn't swim... Talk about brave! We survived the washing machine rapids time and time again and each time you'd fist pump the air with relief and excitement for what you'd just done. Not for the faint hearted, and only the video we got can truly show you the fun, but everyone should do it once in their lifetime.

Now, it would be remiss of me not to mention the one major drawback of the day. Climbing out of the Zambezi gorge. 45 minutes of sheer hell. You literally scale a steep, steep rocky mountain face with a ladder made of flimsy tree branches. Hundreds of makeshift rungs, the heat of midday, pure exhaustion after hauling yourself in and out, up and down in a raft all morning... all while suffering a muscular disease. I'm not even ashamed to say I cried. Yep, I sat down about halfway, when my legs were turned to jelly and my entire body was sapped of strength and I cried. Like a big sook I sobbed "I just can't make it, I know my limitations". I looked up at that clifface and had absolutely no idea how I would get myself up. My disease was at it's worst and I honestly thought my $2K in insurance was actually going to be worth it. But, like every other challenge my illness has thrown at me, I regrouped. With ten jelly steps at a time I made it to the top... And cried again for the sheer strength of my determination. My disease, myasthenia gravis for the curious, has never stopped me before and by every ounce of my willpower it still hasn't. I'm bloody proud of myself.

Needless to say if you're fortunate enough to go to Livingston make sure you do white water rafting in the Zambezi. Just make it a full day to avoid the climb out at half way.

Love to my little Harvey monkey... Tell him mummies alive and will be home soon.

Xxx

Hello Zambia

We crossed the border into Zambia and the difference was immediate. The landscape was flatter and dryer and the people a lot less accessible. Frankly,  they weren't very friendly. They almost scowled at you when you walked through town, but a smiley "hi" and this steely resolve was usually broken.

First stop as usual was the money exchange and we were all immediately millionaires. The kwatcha currency is so huge you forget how cheap it is when dinner costs $70,000!

After crossing through some basic jacaranda painted towns we ended up in burgeoning Lusaka. The shopping centre was so modern you'd think you were at home - if not for the army fatigued men in the supermarket aisles with guns!

We pulled in to Mama Rulas campsite and enjoyed the luxury of warm showers, a swimming pool, and proper raised, flushing toilets (quite a treat after using many bush and squat toilets along the way). It was a guy in our group's birthday and our tour guides cooked the most gourmet meal for us to celebrate. Chocolate cake, thick juicy steaks, homemade bread and jemsquash with butter and sugar - all on a camp stove! We were in high spirits and sat around designing our tour t-shirts and i sewed my badges onto my rucksack. Once again there was the constant prescence of placid camp dogs who I think are the luckiest dogs in Africa. After seeing some of the god forsaken beasts in the street these dogs live like kings - loved by the western campsite owners, and spoiled by the international visitors - they're all fat and happy. Just like me!

The afternoon rains filled the air with a sweet but herbal aroma and it was relaxing after a long day on the road. Early night as we were moving in to an action packed leg of the trip the next day!

Hope my crazy monkey isn't too action packed for mum and daddo... I miss those big black eyes looking for a play partner.

Xxx

whereintheMALAWIarewe?

Oh Malawi how I love thee! What a treat to be in the country my Dad talks so fondly of. He spent his childhood holidays frolicking on the shores of Lake Malawi (the third largest lake in Africa, covering 1/3 of this country) and I was dying to retrace my roots.

From the moment we crossed the border it didn't disappoint. The people were once again friendly and welcoming. They speak very strong English, and everyone I met had an intelligence I couldn't quite put my finger on. Even the street sellers - who can be a pushy irritation elsewhere - were clever and witty in their approach. They had that cocky cheekiness that Aussies do so well, and the banter that immediately endears someone to you. Even if you do have to buy something to enjoy it a little while longer.

Malawian's are a lot darker and broader than the other Africans I've seen. Their features are fuller and their muscles bigger and they share the bright white smiles of those fortunate enough to have untainted drinking water in Africa. Sadly many Tanzanians, especially maasai for instance, have badly rotting teeth. But Malawian's have a blinding Cheshire grin to match their cheeky wit.

We arrived at Chitimba beach on the lake after crossing the border and it was just gorgeous. Lake Malawi looks more like an ocean with white waves and a blue on blue horizon, and we all felt like we'd been plonked down in paradise.

The next day we headed for Kande Beach, where we'd be for the next few nights. We stopped first at Mzuzu though, at the second hand clothing markets, as we had a dress-up party planned for that night. We each had to buy an outfit for a pre-assigned person in our tour group. The crazier the better and the only rule was you had to incorporate a black garbage bag into the outfit. It was hysterical. The person dressing me made me a pink and purple fairy complete with a purple veil and black plastic wings. Some of the boys had really gone to town on each other with  various stages of cross-dress.

The next few days the only thing we were told to do was to get out and enjoy Lake Malawi. Some girls went horse riding on the beach, at the end of which you ride the horse bare back straight into the lake for a swim. With over 500 types of fish in the lake diving is spectacular and my "tenty" Katy took up this option. Some others took a village tour and spent the day playing with kids at the local school where each deskless class had 120 kids in it! I, however, was content to just lie beside the lake watching the locals and fellow campers enjoy this water wonderland. I again ignored the risk of parasites, just as I had in Egypt, and dived straight in to the cool blue waters. Without a care in the world I just floated on my back being rocked gently by the waves as I looked over the mountains of Malawi.

I've also found a new mascot. Malawian's believe in this wonderful mythical creature called a tokoloshe... a lucky man. He's a troll-like figure with a protruding belly and a sway back who creates mischief everywhere he goes. They do wonderful teak carvings of tokoloshes of all shapes an sizes. Naturally I fell in love with this creature and decided I needed one as a partner in crime. So one of the locals aquired a big block of wood and proceeded to carve one especially for me! It was wonderful to see this raw block of wood transform into my very own lucky man by sunset.

A local guy named Banjo Patterson also spent the day roasting a pig on a spit for us. It was delicious, and chatting with him throughout the day was so interesting. He floated the option of me volunteering in kande beach at the school and billeting with a local family fit a pittance. I can't stop thinking about it since.

Our final night we stayed in Lilongwe. The drive was stunning - past thatched hut villages where children would run out squealing with excitement at the sight of our truck. One village with stalls selling intricate woven baskets, another with table after table of dried fish.

Taking a huge overland trip like this really is a panoramic shot of diverse landscapes, myriad cultures, and allows you to see the similarities and differences of each region as you pass through. It doesn't have the cultural depth of becoming a member of the community like volunteering in Tanzania did, but it gives you an equally insightful perspective of the continent of Africa and all it's beauty & diversity. I'm so fortunate to have been able to do both types of trips as I am really getting the best of Africa.

We'd covered some magnificent scenery in Malawi. The lake, the mountains overlooking the lake, a silver boabab forest where these enormous trunked trees really do look like they'd grown upside down with their roots in the air as the locals believe. Or the expansive rubber tree plantations.

Malawi is a stunning country blessed to have its lake of life. While playing scrabble in Lilongwe with my new friends, I had a moment where it hit me. I am living the dream!

Miss my Harvey (and my family & friends) more everyday though.

Xxx

Tanzania Take Two

After a humongous farewell night in Ethiopia I was a little worse for wear when i commenced the next leg of my trip - taking an overland truck from Zanzibar to Cape Town. My pack was lighter, having posted 12.5 kgs of my ruck sack back home, and i was ready to really see the wonders of Africa.

I arrived with a Finnish girl also doing my tour and we set off to meet the rest of our group - some who'd commenced their route 10 days earlier in Nairobi. Since the people you're with make or break a 5 week tour like this i was relieved to find a friendly, outgoing collection of 20 somethings welcoming us warmly into the fold. This was going to be fun!

We went to a local bar to celebrate one of the girls' 30th birthdays but i turned in early, unable to back up from the night before. I was also low on cash, but more on that later. In the morning it was up early for... wait for it... ANOTHER Zanzibar Spice Tour! If you're a blog reader you'll remember my last torturous one with the Bomb Squad. Boredom at it's best, and one of the girls even remarked we should make t-shirts that read "I survived the Spice Tour". Twice for me.

Before heading North we stopped at a bank where my growing fears were realized. No money. Mum had transferred my money for this leg days earlier (save keeping it all on one card all the time) but it still hadn't arrived. And we were about to head north with no ATMs for 3 days. I was laden with Ethiopian Birr and Egyptian pounds but no beureau de change would covert them for me. I was really fretting cos I had about $5 left in Tanzanian shillings. So, after trying everything I could I was forced to board the bus up north, cashless. I promptly spent the last of my money on an S.O.S email to mum but due to the 8 hr time difference it was Saturday morning in Australia when she got it. Still, she called my Aunty Claire in Sydney who dashed to the airport as it was the only branch open... And they saved the day! When I woke up the next day I had money in the bank. Massive thank yous to the rescue squad!

So, I found myself back at the Sunset Bungalows, where I stayed last month with my volunteering tour. To really round out the Zanzibar de ja vu I ran into some girls and a guy I'd volunteered with then too. We made a few extra friends on the beach and all made plans to go back to this cute little restaurant with 3 tables on the sand and the best fish stew in Zanzibar. Waves lapping at your feet, and thousands of stars sparkling in the sky above - iconic African decor.

The next day I blissfully did absolutely nothing. After being ferried around constantly in Egypt it was a nice change to not have anything I must do. Besides, I had to conserve my energy for the big Halloween party that night that everyone was buzzing about.

Now, when you only have the contents of a rucksack and a basic bungalow with which to create a Halloween costume your options are severely limited. There were a lot of bed sheet togas and first aid kit mummies at the party, but I of course decided to be different and went as Smurfette in my pretty blue dress. I can safely say it was the worst costume EVER. Firstly it was crap. Secondly, Africa doesn't have the Smurfs so to them I just looked like someone who'd gone overboard on the blue eyeshadow and had a penchant for big white headscarves (how African). I was shuffled out of photos and quizzed at the door, and spent the night constantly explaining who I was to blank faces. I was also very sunburnt (should have gone as a stop sign in hindsight) and was drinking my favourite African cider - Redd's... the irony certainly wasn't lost on me.

Still my lead balloon costume didn't stop one of the dancers from hauling me up on stage where I was taught how to booty roll like a local while being draped in an enormous python!

My head was sore again the next morning and the flu I'd been gallantly warding off for the last few days had just the assistance it needed to take hold. I was a coughing, sneezing, headachy mess for the next few days.

Discovering that the owner of Makindi campsite, where we stayed outside Dar Es Salaam on the mainland 2 days later, was a closet clothing designer did give me some relief though. After more than 2 months wearing the same clothes I was desperate for a change and her cute cotton print pants and colorful dresses were a savior and a steal.

I then had 2 solid days of driving (23 hours all up) to get acquainted with our overland truck (never call it a bus apparently) as we wound our way through southern Tanzania towards our next destination. Malawi here I come!

I love Tanzania and it was so nice to see this friendly country again. I'll miss it like I do Ethiopia... And my little monkey back home. Kisses for my little guy with the softest fur in the world.

Xxx

Btw did you know "Tanzania" was the hybrid name given to the country when Tanganyika and Zanzibar became  one?

A little love note to Ethiopia

It pains me to have to condense Ethiopia into a single entry more in the interest of catching up. Let it not detract from the fact that Ethiopia is 100% my favourite country so far. When you are there you feel like you're in on a little secret. No words can do it justice, which is perhaps why my entries from here have been so sparse. I've been too busy enjoying this awesome country to write about it!

But, in the interest of preserving the memories, these are a few of my favourite things...

Firstly, communication in Ethiopia! Here you greet people with 3 kisses on the cheek. Awkward at first but definitely an intimacy icebreaker - everyone's a friend when you've kissed them 3 times to say hello! And then there's all the men holding hands. Walking down the street you frequently see whole groups of men hand in hand just chatting. They drape over each other at dinner and are fabulously comfortable with open manlove. My favourite though is that Ethiopians gasp for "yes" in conversation. While you're talking they nod and inhale quickly (the kind of gasp you do when a car suddenly pulls out of a driveway near a toddler). It's disarming at first but it grows on you. I felt too goofy to give it a go myself though.

Then there's the food. We had two favourite traditional Ethiopian restaurants - Yod Abyssinia and Herbesha 3000. Each time we'd get a traditional platter laden with tibs. The whole bottom of the shared platter is covered by a huge sour, bubbly pancake called Injerra. On top of they place little piles of meat, sauce, eggs and cheese. You then get rolls of Injerra on the side and, using only your right hand, everyone tears off strips and scoops up the piles on the plate. It's very spicey... And very yummy! Washed down with some honey wine- it's an Ethiopian feast.

No feast would be complete without entertainment though, and boy do the Erhiopians know how to put on show! Each region has a traditional dance. To describe it its like watching a chicken "popping" with jerky quick movements of their heads, chests and shoulders. They also do this amazing head-spinning dance that's so hard and fast it looks like their heads will fly off into the audience! A lot of the moves are very suggestive (like the women wearing horse tails while grinding the men pretending to whip them).

A good Ethiopian dinner and show can only be followed by one thing... A short ride in a blue and white cab for bright blue Kamikaze shots at a fantastic local club. And there are loads to choose from.

Addis Ababa has all the conveniences of a modern city, without compromising it's African charm. The shopfronts are painted vivid pinks and aquas and turquoise. What look like butchers shops with hanging carcasses are everywhere, but they're actually Ethiopian fast food. You buy strips of the raw meat and eat it on the spot. Bright, embellished umbrellas hang everywhere and woman use them in the streets to protect their prized fair skin. And the beautiful coffin shops you see everywhere stacked high with bright, sparkling, velvet & gold coffins, with matching fluro wreaths. The coffins are beautiful and let it be on the record that I want a bright Ethiopian coffin when I die.

The city also has buzzing shopping hubs like Entoto where I bought some gorgeous traditional dresses in light cottons and vibrant colours. Nothing about Ethiopian culture is subtle or dull!

This may have to do with it being the only African country that was never colonized. Save for a 4 year warring period with Italy, Ethiopia has maintained it's rich and diverse African heritage since time immemorial. The people are proud of this and this strength permeates and magnifies all aspects of their culture, carrying the past as an integral part of their present.

The women still put butter in their hair and traditional head dresses can be bought everywhere. They and the regional crosses were two souvenirs I happily picked up. Each region is known for it's unique clothing, food, dance and historical significance and they celebrate this diversity.

The historical route is amazing and rivals all but Egypt's ancient sights in Africa. Not many people know these ancient relics are here, or even that key landmarks like the start of the (blue) Nile is here at Lake Tana. I went to one ancient church in the mountains carved right into the solid rock that was once purported to have housed the Arc of the Covenant. A lovely local hermit showed us around before taking us through the woods nearby for a breataking view over Addis. We had ridden horses from the British Embassy into these mountains a fortnight earlier and the view blew me away then too.

My family in Ethiopia were so generously hospitable and went out of their way to show me the best of their gorgeous country. I cant thank them enough. Another highlight was a 4 day trip down south to Lake Langano where we bunkered down at a little cottage beside the red mineral lake. We played scrabble, took swims, lay out spotting shooting stars, collected porcupine quills, canoed along the foreshore, taunted nearby hyenas, and laughed till our cheeks hurt. I lost my treasured pink kikoi when i capsized my canoe about 50m offshore, only to find it on the bottom of the lake with a single dive when i went to look for it later! We were visited by some enormous birds, and some cute colorful ones, Lyndsay spotted a snake, and I got to see a stunning Abyssinian cat. My family are wonderfully mad & eccentric and it was a blast making mischief with them. The long drive there took us past clustered Ethiopian villages and roadside stalls - some selling giant pumpkins.

We met some awesome people along the way and I have resolved to try and live in Ethiopia with my Harvey Bear one day. I love and adore Ethiopia and will miss it dearly. A special mention to my partner in crime and the most fabulous lady ever - Lily... you dropped something!!

Don't forget my Harvey Bear... Mwahhh

Xxx

An Egyptian anecdote

One night when our felucca was resting beside a Nubian village we had to walk a plank to get to shore to use their amenities. One of the ladies with us didn't think she could balance well enough to cross it. So our cook jumped up, demonstrated how easy it was, turned to her from the other side and said "see... walk like an Egyptian".

Priceless!

The last of Egypt

The next few days took us too some equally incredible temples and tombs. Like Kom Ombo - still largely intact and vividly colourful with it's original paint. My favourite was the powdered-lapislazuli bright blue roof covered with white painted stars. I'll recreate them in my home one day. Next was Karnak, on the East bank of Luxor, an enormous temple- the size of 66 football fields, that took 1300 years to build! Or Luxor Temple, also on the east bank, that we got to see at night.

Luxor is such an ancient city that every time they knock down a building they can find a temple or a statue underneath it. Many locals have become wealthy from digging under their houses and selling the uncovered treasures on the black market. Because of this the government is currently in the process of kicking everyone out of Luxor and making it a tourist-only precinct for antiquities and hotels only. Opinion is divided over this.

We were woken during darkness hours the next morning to make our way across to the east bank for a sunrise hot air balloon ride. It was the most beautiful thing I have done on my trip so far! The Valley of the Kings, and Hatshepsuts Temple - that we'd both see again later - were illuminated gold as the sun rose slowly across the Nile. As our balloon dipped low we hovered over the backyards of the villagers going about their morning chores. Then we'd rise high again for a birds eye view of the ancient wonders sitting patiently as they have for millennia, beside the burgeoning, buzzing city of Luxor.

The Temples later did not disappoint either-however the 48 degree temperature at Hatshepsuts Temple was tough going! I sought refuge in a coffee shop where a cold drink would be cheaper if made of solid gold!

The highlight for me though was seeing Tutankhamun's tomb at the Valley of the Kings complete with his mummy lying peacefully where it has for thousands of years. It was stunning and again no book could prepare you for the reality of seeing it. Like the fact the mummy sparkles black because of the resin used. Or how short he is - about the size if a ten year old. It was a once in a lifetime experience and worth every cent. The Colosseum of Memnon rounded out the day.

That night we caught an overnight to Cairo (I held out for 12 hours just to avoid using the toilet!) and again my uncanny ability to sleep anywhere came in handy. Nodded off as we pulled out in Luxor and woke up as we pulled in to Cairo.

I am also proud to say my stomach of steel has held out even in notorious Egypt. Turns out my brilliant Dr Nalder was onto something when he armed me with the following travel advice - take one acidophilus tablet and a multi vitamin a day. I have eaten street food, drunk tap water, and swum in the Nile and remain fit as a fiddle! Touch wood.

The food was amazing too. I'll especially miss the Koshary (rice, noodles, pasta, beans & tomatoes thrown in a bowl - Egyptian fast food) and the delicious beef kofta which is also found in the McArabia at McDonalds.

Our last few days were spent living it up in Cairo. Daniel and I caught a movie downtown, complete with intermission and barely audible language (they turn down the English words like in karaoke and turn up the background sound). Daniel picked up some perfectly fitted jeans after we noticed every guy in Egypt owned a pair - he looked very "hamsome"! We survived another day crossing kamikaze roads and got very lost looking for our hotel.

A highlight of our final Cairo leg was going to Dreampark - the biggest theme park in the Middle East. It was so much fun, and nothing could compare to click-click-clicking  up the enormous roller coaster only to hear Daniel exclaim "look at the Pyramids" at the top! I got stuck in a swarm of people wanting to take my photo, and much to our distress we were shadowed by two huge bodybuilders as we made our escape. As we piled into a taxi we realized they'd actually been doing it to protect us from the growing mob.

I was sad to leave this incredible heaving, historical country, but was now en route to say my goodbyes to Ethiopia...

Snuggles for my gorgeous Harvey Bear who's being very well looked after by his Nana Anna and Grandpa Sean. Thanks M & D!!!

Xxx