whereintheMALAWIarewe?

Oh Malawi how I love thee! What a treat to be in the country my Dad talks so fondly of. He spent his childhood holidays frolicking on the shores of Lake Malawi (the third largest lake in Africa, covering 1/3 of this country) and I was dying to retrace my roots.

From the moment we crossed the border it didn't disappoint. The people were once again friendly and welcoming. They speak very strong English, and everyone I met had an intelligence I couldn't quite put my finger on. Even the street sellers - who can be a pushy irritation elsewhere - were clever and witty in their approach. They had that cocky cheekiness that Aussies do so well, and the banter that immediately endears someone to you. Even if you do have to buy something to enjoy it a little while longer.

Malawian's are a lot darker and broader than the other Africans I've seen. Their features are fuller and their muscles bigger and they share the bright white smiles of those fortunate enough to have untainted drinking water in Africa. Sadly many Tanzanians, especially maasai for instance, have badly rotting teeth. But Malawian's have a blinding Cheshire grin to match their cheeky wit.

We arrived at Chitimba beach on the lake after crossing the border and it was just gorgeous. Lake Malawi looks more like an ocean with white waves and a blue on blue horizon, and we all felt like we'd been plonked down in paradise.

The next day we headed for Kande Beach, where we'd be for the next few nights. We stopped first at Mzuzu though, at the second hand clothing markets, as we had a dress-up party planned for that night. We each had to buy an outfit for a pre-assigned person in our tour group. The crazier the better and the only rule was you had to incorporate a black garbage bag into the outfit. It was hysterical. The person dressing me made me a pink and purple fairy complete with a purple veil and black plastic wings. Some of the boys had really gone to town on each other with  various stages of cross-dress.

The next few days the only thing we were told to do was to get out and enjoy Lake Malawi. Some girls went horse riding on the beach, at the end of which you ride the horse bare back straight into the lake for a swim. With over 500 types of fish in the lake diving is spectacular and my "tenty" Katy took up this option. Some others took a village tour and spent the day playing with kids at the local school where each deskless class had 120 kids in it! I, however, was content to just lie beside the lake watching the locals and fellow campers enjoy this water wonderland. I again ignored the risk of parasites, just as I had in Egypt, and dived straight in to the cool blue waters. Without a care in the world I just floated on my back being rocked gently by the waves as I looked over the mountains of Malawi.

I've also found a new mascot. Malawian's believe in this wonderful mythical creature called a tokoloshe... a lucky man. He's a troll-like figure with a protruding belly and a sway back who creates mischief everywhere he goes. They do wonderful teak carvings of tokoloshes of all shapes an sizes. Naturally I fell in love with this creature and decided I needed one as a partner in crime. So one of the locals aquired a big block of wood and proceeded to carve one especially for me! It was wonderful to see this raw block of wood transform into my very own lucky man by sunset.

A local guy named Banjo Patterson also spent the day roasting a pig on a spit for us. It was delicious, and chatting with him throughout the day was so interesting. He floated the option of me volunteering in kande beach at the school and billeting with a local family fit a pittance. I can't stop thinking about it since.

Our final night we stayed in Lilongwe. The drive was stunning - past thatched hut villages where children would run out squealing with excitement at the sight of our truck. One village with stalls selling intricate woven baskets, another with table after table of dried fish.

Taking a huge overland trip like this really is a panoramic shot of diverse landscapes, myriad cultures, and allows you to see the similarities and differences of each region as you pass through. It doesn't have the cultural depth of becoming a member of the community like volunteering in Tanzania did, but it gives you an equally insightful perspective of the continent of Africa and all it's beauty & diversity. I'm so fortunate to have been able to do both types of trips as I am really getting the best of Africa.

We'd covered some magnificent scenery in Malawi. The lake, the mountains overlooking the lake, a silver boabab forest where these enormous trunked trees really do look like they'd grown upside down with their roots in the air as the locals believe. Or the expansive rubber tree plantations.

Malawi is a stunning country blessed to have its lake of life. While playing scrabble in Lilongwe with my new friends, I had a moment where it hit me. I am living the dream!

Miss my Harvey (and my family & friends) more everyday though.

Xxx