Happy Ramadan!

Where to start to recount possibly the best day of my life? My stomach is stretched, my feet are swollen, my cheeks are sore from smiling so much, and my heart is very very full.

I have now been teaching my adult English class for a week. The women are so greatful and have told me I'm a good teacher. It's amazing to watch the lightbulbs go off as each person comprehends what they've just learnt. We covered greetings one day, words they've all heard but never known how to apply. They so loved finally understanding that "sun up to midday (noon) is good morning", "noon to sun down is good afternoon" and "sun down to midnight is good evening". They were really proud of themselves. Another day we did senses and the smell of African spices being prepared for Ramadan, and the chanting from the Mosque next door were very handy tools. It's amazing how much you can actually teach with so few resources.

To express their gratitude for my time and for teaching many of their children they invited me to the biggest celebration on the muslim calendar, Ramadan. They have not been able to eat or drink during daylight hours for a month, and are celebrating the end of this Ramadan period. I asked if I could bring some friends and they excitedly said of course... so off we went, not quite sure what to expect.

We set off at 10am - I had a backpack stuffed with cakes to give my hosts at each stop. First we met Teacher Neema, who'd be our tour guide for the day, and walked to her tiny village. Her and I are kindred spirits and I think she truly means it when she says she loves me. We walked for over an hour to reach her house, stopping along the way to meet teachers from other schools who'd asked her to bring us by in the hope they might get some volunteer support too. These "schools" vary immensely, from somebody's porch, to grand halls built by western sponsors, to rows of school desks outside under the trees. I don't think they see Mzungus (westerners) very often and they were so flattered we were taking the time to admire their home.

Neema took us into her home with such pride, and visitors came constantly to the door to say hello. She has so little money and so many people to feed, yet we were each given a bottle of Coca-cola and a bowl of rice & beans. We gratefully ate the offering, sure to leave just a mouthful to show they were generous enough to fill us up but not so stingy as to leave us hungry had we finished the whole plate. After lunch we all danced as apparently this helps with digestion of the food. It was so much fun.

We spent hours there talking with the locals, many of whom were parents of the children I've been teaching, and playing with these happy, cheeky kids. It strikes you how little they have yet how close the families are and how happy everyone seems to be. After eating our fill we were escorted a long way along the road by the village women and children. Finally they had to turn back, but Neema stayed with us.

The next stop was Zuena's house in Soweto. The conditions were very poor - just a cramped, compacted mud room - a bed pushed up next to a tiny coffee table on which a huge feast was presented, made especially for us! She was so proud to have us there and had dressed her tiny baby in a suit especially. Her old mother joined us, constantly saying Karibu (welcome), as did many of the women in the village. They watched ecstatically as we ate, and the babies cried because they were so scared of our white skin. Then again we danced. Nothing could be as joyous as 10 women who can't speak to each other dancing and hugging and laughing. The generosity was astounding and their gratitude incredible. After profuse "asante sanas" (thank you very much) we were off to Ahmed and Asha's house.

A nicer house by comparison, we were taken to a small sitting room with an ornate coffee table. Ahmed proudly told us he was a carpenter and had made all the furniture himself. The gorgeous children - all students of mine - left the room and came back 10 minutes later in pristine pressed shirts and pants, and pretty party dresses. We were presented our third full sized meal - rice and cabbage, and again we ate greatfully. One of the boys asked me to dance with him and was amused by my awkward Mzungu dancing. A cat in the corner had the most beautiful 1 week old kittens that we fell in love with. I took a family photo for them, as I did at all the stops, and promised to send them a copy.

Next was Mama's house. Mama makes the porridge the school children eat at lunch and her husband is the Treasurer of the school. This is the matriarch and patriarch of Soweto. They were immensely proud to host us and the spread mama presented was jaw dropping! Two types of rice, chicken, fries, fried banana, soup, 2 curries.... and again we sat down to eat a full bowl. Her elderly mother lay frail on a bed in the corner of the room and watched on as again we danced. They were wearing their best clothes and kept saying how "happy, happy, happy" they were to have us. We danced and we danced, and chatted - with Neema translating for both parties - and had the best time! These women are so vibrant and fun and full of joy.

Our fifth and final stop was Aisha's house and so again we kicked off our shoes at the door and sat down for a feast. We were really struggling now to eat more food but Neema insisted as it was made especially for us, at great expense, and they feel great pride in feeding special guests. As beautiful as it was, swallowing each mouthful was near impossible... but down it went, and again we danced. And laughed, and played with their gorgeous children. Aisha's little boy was petrified of the kangaroo key ring I gave him.

It was now 7pm and we had spent 10 hours, 5 bowls, 3 bottles, countless kilometres, and so many laughs making new friends in Tanzania. Asha, Aisha and Neema walked us all the way home - laughing and dancing in the street as we went. I slyly slipped Neema the bus fare and told her to rush home to her baby.

I doubt I will ever have an experience like this again. I have friends for life in these people and will make sure I visit them often over the next few weeks. Their pride and hospitality was incredible for little Esther Pedersen from Australia. Tanzanian people are in a class of their own.

So much more happened, and I hope the photos I will upload tomorrow will capture the sheer fun of the day.

Sorry to everyone who's been waiting for personal emails, but it's very hard. I have to walk 40 minutes to get to the internet and it's so slow to load even a page. I usually only have enough time to write this before it times out and I have to trek home. Miss you all heaps though!

Love to my Harvey Bear (who I hear has taken to barking so please get out the water sprayer mum and daddo!)

xxx