Wednesday, December 1, 2010

The Devil's Pool

As I mentioned before, we were initially disappointed when we heard we'd arrived in the dry season, as Victoria Falls would be at low capacity. Turns out it's arguably a better time to be there as the falls are still spectacular, but you also get to do dry-season-only activities like white water rafting and the Devil's Pool.

As people returned to camp from their activities every day we'd get reports on what was worth doing. It soon became clear that every single person who'd done The Devil's Pool raved about it. I'd never even heard of it before, but it was clearly unmissable, so on my last day in Livingston i booked the breakfast trip - I had to find out what all the fuss was about. Thank god I did. The Devil's Pool is the most spectacular thing I've done in Africa yet!

We all met at the decadent Royal Livingston hotel that overlooks the edge of the falls on the Zambia side. The hotel is absolute luxury and as you sit watching the hippos enjoying the river just before it rages over the edge you feel like you're in another era.

In groups of 6 they come and collect you from the glorious sun deck and pile you into a little motor boat that ferries you to Livingston Island, nestled right in the middle of the top of the massive waterfall. From here you walk to the very edge and can look both left and right and straight down infamous Victoria Falls. You then wade right out across the edge's water to the source of the heaviest section of the falls, before climbing out up onto the rocks and being faced with the edge of the world.

It really is incredible and no description or photo could truly communicate what it's like to be right in the midst (and the mist) of one of the seven wonders of the world. We were all lost for words and a bit shell shocked by the amazingness of what we'd done as we sat down for a gourmet breakfast under a marquee on Livingston island, a few feet from the edge.

You wouldn't believe it but we made the Devil's Pool only days before it would have to close again for the wet season. I can't shake the feeling I have a guardian angel aligning the stars for me along this trip. Whether it was getting to Tanzania just in time for end of Ramadan celebrations, being in Aswan on one of the two days of the year the sun rises on the annex statues of Abu Simbel, or just scraping in to the Devil's Pool. I like to think my Grandma Marjie might be pulling strings from above.

We spent the afternoon lazing by the pool of the hotel next door to our campsite and were treated to a jawdropping only-in-Africa moment. A huge herd of elephant crossing the Zambezi just in front of us. They walk along the bottom and at times only their trunks are visible sticking out of the water. They push the babies to the top for air as they cross. What a beautiful thing to see!

That night we went to a surprisingly scrumptious Italian restaurant in Livingston. The restaurant was a money maker for a local disadvantaged children's charity and all the employees were success stories of the charity themselves. Olgas is worth a visit if you ever go to Zambia.

Zambia was so much fun and I hope I can get back there one day with a week to do the myriad activities on offer in Livingston. A farrrncy honeymoon at the Royal Livingston perhaps!

Love hearing the Harvey Bear anecdotes from home. Miss my lil monster

Xxx

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