Windhoek Oasis

The border crossing at Namibia was a long, hot one. We were behind a busload of Namibian students and the difference was immediately clear - these kids were dripping in bling! They had gold earrings, diamond studs (guys too) and gadgets galore. I've never seen headphones used as such a fashion statement before.

But of course this is Africa and even in the most cosmopolitan of complexes you'll still see that amazing sight of someone in traditional dress weaving amongst the label-emblazoned crowd. And in Namibia there are 2 distinct tribes - the ocre-covered Himba people, and the Herero "cow horn" ladies. It was the latter that flanked us at the border crossing and it was a wonderful contrast to the youth in front.

These women wear very traditional colonial-style dresses, complete with capes and bustles. But the most distinctive part of their costumes are these huge headresses they wear to resemble cow horns. Made of luscious fabrics that are expertly co-ordinated with the rest of their ensemble, the easiest way to describe them is like hammerhead sharks. Apparently it's a rolled up newspaper that holds it in shape, and it's an incredible sight seeing these woman from another era in modern Africa.

As we drove towered Windhoek the landscape was mind-blowing. Enormous mountains with huge horizontal cliff-faces that ran the length of them literally looked like they'd been pushed up out of the ground in one quick lift. Bright blue skies and fluffy clods like cotton balls made our first glimpse of Namibia something special. We knew we were in for a treat for the next ten days... But no-one could have guessed just how good it would get.

Once in Windhoek I was blown away by the obvious wealth in this city. Opulent houses lined streets filled with BMWs, Audis, Mercedes. The city itself reminded me of Addis Ababa in Ethiopia, surrounded by majestic mountains. Appropriately we were booked into a hotel for the night. A REAL hotel, the Hotel Safari Court, with proper beds, and pressure showers, and free wifi. I hadn't slept in a bed for 3 weeks so it was absolute luxury! In the spirit of all this glamour we all got dolled up and headed for a local institution - Joe's Beerhouse.

It did not disappoint. Famous for it's menu of game, and seemingly bottomless supply of Jeigermeister shots (how appropriate since Jäger Meister means Master Hunter), the menu honestly looked like a safari guide. I chose the Namib Bushfire wigh oryx, zebra, and ostriche medallions and it was delicious! We had a great night out, met lots of new people, and fell into bed for a blissfully sound nights sleep. No wet tent smell for miles!

We were a little bit sad to leave but it was onwards to Waterberg. Much to my delight, along the way we passed heaps of cheeky warthog on the roadside, as well as a handless baboon! Everything in Namibia was fancier. There were proper roadside tables for us to eat lunch. Stunning little town filled with Jacarandas and German architecture.

It was a great start to a great country and I immediately thought Namibia might give Ethiopia a run for it's money in my favorite stakes. Both are very well kept secrets I was now in on.

Give my Harvey Bear an extra special hug. Mamas coming home soon!

Xxx